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Delicious Clams à Bulhão Pato, offered at Chá Chá Chá, in the town of Olhão, are a culinary hallmark. These succulent, soft mollusks form the essence of Algarvian cooking, and the dish enjoys widespread popularity across Portugal.

A resurgence of culinary traditions is taking place in an eastern part of Portugal, as inhabitants reconnect with their ancestry to honor a diverse array of produce, sourced from land, salt marshes, and the sea.

Algarvian delicacy, Clams à Bulhão Pato, savored at Chá Chá Chá in Olhão. These painful...
Algarvian delicacy, Clams à Bulhão Pato, savored at Chá Chá Chá in Olhão. These painful little morsels of seafood are a traditional favorite, and the dish is celebrated widely across Portugal for its sweet and tender texture.

Delicious Clams à Bulhão Pato, offered at Chá Chá Chá, in the town of Olhão, are a culinary hallmark. These succulent, soft mollusks form the essence of Algarvian cooking, and the dish enjoys widespread popularity across Portugal.

Nestled in the sun-kissed south of Portugal, the Algarve region is a gastronomic paradise, offering a unique blend of Mediterranean and Atlantic flavours. From the labyrinthine old town of Olhão to the traffic-free island of Ilha de Armona, here's a taste of what this culinary haven has to offer.

In Olhão, Kevin Gould, a former journalist turned restaurateur, owns the charming Cha Cha Cha and the gluten-free bakery Santa Maria Madalena. Eglantina 'Tina' Monteiro runs the Hotel and Restaurant Companhia das Culturas, where a sumptuous breakfast spread includes figs, guava, pitanga, sweet potato, muxama, cheese, lemon and fig jam, carrot cake, guava juice, and yoghurt.

Figs, introduced to the Algarve by the Moors, grow wild in the region and are exceptionally sweet in season, usually around late summer. Almonds, some of the best in the world, can be found in markets, as well as in every possible kind of cake and pastry. A local favourite is Folar de Olhão, a cake much like an oversized cinnamon roll, sticky with caramelized sugar and laden with fennel seeds and cinnamon.

The Algarvian diet is largely Mediterranean in style, with Atlantic fish and shellfish at its heart. Amêijoas (clams) are dug fresh from the Ria Formosa and are a common ingredient in the classic Portuguese dish, amêijoas à Bulhão Pato. Fresh fish and lamb are roasted in the oven, oysters are served gratinated or unadulterated, and small sardines are baked with mace and alioli at Adérito de Almeida's kitchen.

Speaking of Adérito de Almeida, his kitchen at the summer-open Lanacosta restaurant on Ilha de Armona offers a cataplana, a stew made in a pot of the same name, showcasing seafood, sweet potatoes, peppers, and coriander. The three-course dinner without wine costs £40 per person. There are five restaurants open during the summer on Ilha de Armona, making it an ideal destination for food lovers.

Ilha de Armona is one of five barrier islands in the Ria Formosa that protect the mainland from the full force of the Atlantic. It boasts spectacular beaches and is traffic-free, with no cash points and just three shops selling essentials and alcohol.

The salt pans where Jorge Raiado works fill with water after a full moon and a new moon. It is here that he harvests the prized flor de sal, a shimmering product of the sea. Using traditional wooden rakes, he collects the delicate crystals that form on the surface of the pans. This labor-intensive process requires precise timing and skill, and the salt is carefully gathered before it sinks or dissolves.

Jorge's salt is recognized as one of the best culinary products in Portugal and is used in many of the best restaurants in the country. Rui Geronimo, who makes presunto, a sweet, dry-cured ham from acorn-fed black pigs, at Feito no Zambujal, is one such chef. Jorge has even given the author some flor de sal to cook with.

Estaminé, a restaurant in the Eastern Algarve, serves seafood with very little fuss. A three-course lunch without wine costs £26.50 per person. Chef Noélia Jerónimo's restaurant in the seaside resort of Cabanas de Tavira offers seafood rice dishes, such as arroz de limão com corvina e amêijoas.

Whether you're a food enthusiast or simply looking for a taste of Portugal's rich culinary heritage, the Algarve is a must-visit destination. With its fresh seafood, traditional dishes, and artisanal salt, it's a gastronomic journey not to be missed.

  1. In Olhão, the Hotel and Restaurant Companhia das Culturas serves a sumptuous breakfast with fruits like figs and guava, traditional Portuguese cakes, and locally-sourced guava juice.
  2. Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato is a popular Portuguese dish made with fresh clams that are a common ingredient in the Algarve.
  3. The Lanacosta restaurant on Ilha de Armona offers a stew called cataplana, featuring seafood, sweet potatoes, peppers, and coriander, made by Adérito de Almeida.
  4. Jorge Raiado's flor de sal, harvested from traditional salt pans, is considered one of Portugal's best culinary products and is used by chefs like Rui Geronimo who makes presunto at Feito no Zambujal.

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