Experience the opulence of a bygone era amidst the lush greenery of Malaysia's rainforest, as you travel on its last remaining sleeper train.
Hop Aboard the J.R. Patterson's Swanky Train Ride Through Malaysia's Jungle and Colonial Outposts
J.R. Patterson takes us on a luxurious rail journey from Singapore, winding through Taman Negara National Park and onto the colonial hotspots of Penang.
As I stood alone on the open caboose, the train roared north over the Strait of Johor, leaving the Lion City behind. A vivid rainbow appeared briefly before a dark cloud, releasing another torrent of rain and lightning. Malaysia, as French writer Henri Fauconnier once put it, is a land where skies shed tears but gray days never descend.
Smiling passengers piled onto the Eastern & Oriental Express (E&O Express), embarking on a journey into the heart of the Malayan peninsula. The E&O Express had once stretched all the way from Singapore to Bangkok, but 2020 scuppered its rides. Belmond resurrected it in 2024 for multi-day round trips through Malaysia, now the only sleeper train still operating in the country.
Stepping aboard, I found myself surrounded by wood-panelled carriages, a warm respite from the stormy weather. The en-suite compartments were roomy and cozy, with any Malaysian sultan green with envy. My State cabin sported a chair and lounger that converted to single beds, along with a generous marble handbasin and a full-size shower with its own sweet cabin steward.
Passing through, I encountered colorful characters like Australian lawyers, American artists, and Malaysian magnates, all dressed to impress and drawn to the adjacent bar car. An aura of relaxed, refined elegance accompanied this voyage.
Mixing Cultures and Cuisine
Malaysia is a melting pot of Malay, Chinese, and Indian cultures, and the food on board combined these diverse flavors with a dash of Provence. My first meal aboard was a kimchi niçoise with a crispy udon galette, followed by a coconut blancmanger with Nyonya chendol for dessert. A magician, jazz trio, and karaoke nights in the bar kept us entertained, while the onboard spa or mahjong set beckoned for relaxation.
Yet, many preferred the fresh air on the observation deck, where the wind blew away the heat and carried the scent of sodden roots and woodsmoke.
Wildlife and Adventure in Taman Negara
By morning, we arrived at Merapoh, ushering in a new adventure through Taman Negara National Park, famous for its mystical caves. A pickup truck brought me and local guide Nizam Khairun into the midst of the dense jungle, where we caught a glimpse of a great argus, a bird that reminded one of a Dickensian peacock, with its long, dun-colored tail.
Spotting wildlife proved elusive, as the Taman Negara brush is thick and sightings are challenging. We were treated to glimpses of gibbon calls, elephant prints, and shredded trees bearing evidence of sun bear attempts to reach bee nests.
Our train journey continued southward, passing vast palm oil and rubber tree plantations, with Georgetown welcoming us in the evening. A chartered, three-wheeled pedal taxi tour showcased the city's vibrant street art, a tribute to its colonial past and cultural renaissance.
Reaching the End of the Line
With the dance of the great trains at an end, we slid down the western coast toward Singapore, a bittersweet farewell to this passage steeped in luxury and memories. All great trains arrive too soon, but this adventure would linger in our hearts as a tale of adventure, culture, and splendor.
The writer was a guest of Belmond's Eastern and Oriental Express.
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- The sighting of a great argus, reminiscent of a Dickensian peacock, was a highlight in Taman Negara National Park during the train journey.
- The en-suite compartments on the E&O Express, with their roomy and cozy design, were a sight to behold, making any Malaysian sultan feel envious.
- Food and drink offerings on the E&O Express combined diverse Malay, Chinese, Indian, and French flavors, providing a true reflection of Malaysia's multicultural lifestyle.
- The E&O Express, now the only sleeper train operating in Malaysia, offers travelers a chance to experience a relaxed, refined elegance as it journeys through the Malayan peninsula.
