Journeying 100 kilometers into the antique empire of Asia
Unleashed Routes of the Ancient Khmer Empire: Unveiling the Secrets of the East Royal Road
Embark on the journey of a lifetime as you traverse one of the oldest and most captivating highways in Southeast Asia – the East Royal Road, a testament to the grandeur of the legendary Khmer Empire.
My adventure began on the morning of my birthday in the enchanting city of Siem Reap, Cambodia. As I stepped out of the elegant Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor, reminiscing about Jackie Kennedy's visit in 1967, my guide, Pheakdey "Dey" Sieng, welcomed me to explore the East Royal Road, a 100km route connecting the timeless temples of Angkor Wat, Beng Mealea, and Preah Khan Kompong Svay. This road was not just a conduit for movement; it was a lifeline that mirrored the Khmer Empire's reign, connecting their historical capital, Angkor, with contemporary Thailand, Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar.
Fasten your seatbelts for a thrilling odyssey through the world's most remarkable highways!
As I delved deeper into the East Royal Road, it was evident that this road was more than just a transport route. Ancient bridges, hidden temples, and intricate irrigation systems dotted its landscape, offering glimpses of the Khmer's elaborate transportation network, which extended far beyond its provincial cities. Unlike other roads, the East Royal Road stood out due to the profound collection of Khmer infrastructure it harbored, such as bridges, ponds, walls, and embankments, many of which remain intact. In addition, resthouse temples were strategically placed along the road where travelers could refuel, pray, and rest during their journey.
The route was – and still is – a playground for adventurous souls, with a surging popularity among dirt-bike enthusiasts and temple connoisseurs alike. Before my visit, Prime Minister Hun Manet had even nominated Beng Mealea and Preah Khan for UNESCO World Heritage status, piquing growing curiosity and eliciting expectations of a historical treasure trove that would soon be undiscovered.
However, riding along the East Royal Road wasn't a walk in the park. April is a month to avoid in Siem Reap due to the blistering heat, and that particular week, a heatwave pushed temperatures sky-high, above 40°C, with a UV index topping at 12.
The route began with a tantalizing blend of the old and the new as Dey led me through the ancient earthen road, now mostly following paved Highway 6. Our first stop, Kampong Kdei, unveiled a striking 86-meter bridge with 21 arches, first built during the 12th-century reign of Jayavarman VII. The bridge's rust-colored balustrades, eerily shaped like nine-headed nagas, exuded an aura of water and fertility.
Dey then revealed a secret: "Welcome to the free massage road," as we veered onto a bumpy dirt path. Laughing, I imagined the refreshing relief of a therapeutic massage amid sweating and rattling bones, only to realize that Dey had been referring to the rather uncomfortable jolts that seemed to shake every ounce of life off my body. Despite the discomfort, the scenery slowly transformed as we left modern Siem Reap behind and entered the idyllic countryside, with villagers and their livestock roaming the sun-baked landscape.
Our next destination was Preah Khan, a temple as much robbed as revered. This sanctuary had been plundered by French explorers in the 19th century and by locals in the 20th, leaving it a disheveled remnant of its former glory. Still, the intricate carvings of three-headed stone swans, divine birds (garudas), elephants, and nagas stood majestically against the ravage of time, a testament to the civilization that once thrived on these lands.
Lunch was a delightful, albeit filling, affair under the soaring Cambodian sun. As we continued our journey, the landscape transformed once again, this time into a fantasy world of settler shacks, dirt trails, and lush, verdant forests. It was time to embark on the thrilling off-road motorcycle journey to Beng Mealea. Clinging to the rustically charming Mr. Cheat, we zipped through the jungle, weaving our way between treacherous trenches, low-hanging branches, and the occasional tractor on clay paths.
Our destination was a sight to behold: Beng Mealea was a time capsule of Khmer civilization, largely untouched and steeped in mystery. Although it was constructed around the same time as Angkor Wat, it is believed to have served as a prototype for the capital. With the towering silk cotton trees and sprawling strangler figs, Beng Mealea seemed to be resurrected from the underworld.
After a memorable birthday adventure, I bid farewell to the alluring East Royal Road and its wondrous secrets, marveling at the indomitable spirit of the ancient Khmer Empire that reverberated through its modern-day remnants.
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Exploring hidden gems:
Did you know that many of the East Royal Road's resthouse temples – facilities for resting, religious, or secular uses – remain unknown to the world? Historians continue to study and excavate these mysteries, casting new light on the architectural prowess and social structures of the ancient Khmer Empire.
Unraveling the intricate weaves:
Unearthing the East Royal Road's elaborate irrigation systems could offer insights into the methods that sustained the Khmer Empire's extraordinary infrastructure, optimizing water management and contributing to the civilization's resilience in the face of harsh climates.
Published: 21st Aug 2024
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Experience the unique lifestyle that blends travel and history as you embark on an exploration of the hidden gems along the East Royal Road, discovering ancient resthouse temples that remain undiscovered by the world.
Your journey through this ancient highway also presents an opportunity to unravel the intricate irrigation systems left behind by the Khmer Empire, offering insights into theoptimized water management strategies that contributed to the civilization's resilience.
